Kashmir tourism

Gun-toting paramilitary; strict controls not conducive to growth of tourism

Security fears eclipse Kashmir tourism

The Paradise on earth! The Switzerland of India! Does it exist any longer? No. Obviously not with gun-toting paramilitary men mounted on jeeps patrolling the streets, check-points dotting the Capital Srinagar and well-armed men of the CRP keeping a watchful eye on the busy Lal Chowk confirm that the there are apprehensions; a feeling of comfort does not overtake a visitor even if he is lodged in the most luxurious hotel of the city.

The period of turmoil which totally eliminated the tourism industry in the State of Jammu and Kashmir is over, but the scars are yet to heal and it may be long before this happens.

The Jammu and Kashmir Tourism has been trying to convince tourists, tour operators, travel agents travel media about the return of normalcy; have been spending substantial amounts on this propagation, but this is far from reality.

A sunny day in Srinagar forcing the mercury to 30 degrees even in September adds to the problems of a tourist who lands in the valley to discover that his cell phone is rendered a useless gadget. Tourists from any part of the country using pre-paid mobile numbers cannot use them in the valley as they are blocked and banned in the valley for security reasons. Only those with a post-paid connection can hope to remain connected with the world. One cannot even buy a pre-paid connection in the valley unless he is a local resident and has a permanent address in Srinagar. On the contrary with a little effort one can hire a pre-paid sim card or get it for free from an acquaintance. The security agencies have no control over this. Moreover, SMS is completely suspended in the valley for security reasons. However, one fails to understand the presence of cyber cafes which could be easily misused and be a threat to the security.

The famed house boats of the Dal Lake have lost their charm as they are ill-maintained and are not value for the money they ask. A phone conversation between a first time visitor to the city and his host overheard --- “You have lodged me in a house boat. It is shabby, I cannot stay here. Please shift me out of the house boat to a hotel, even if it located in the crowded city area.” This part conversation speaks volumes about the state of house boats which are mostly anchored to one point close to the old city.

The charm of the ‘shikaras’ (the single oared boats) have disappeared. They are visible in a very small fraction of the huge Dal Lake, the larger portion is covered with water weed, no more lotus plants. The road that runs along the lake wears a deserted look, seemingly because there is barely any stopping point for a tourist cab or vehicle. A broken ‘shikara’ decaying on one bank of the lake speaks volumes of neglect. Weeds have taken over the lake and the three small dredgers employed to clear the waters of this giant water body would take more than a decade to finish the task.

Srinagar Centaur, one of the two surviving hotels of the Hotel Corporation of India, occupying a prime location like a peninsula into the Dal Lake, is showing signs of ageing and neglect except for the Sher-e-Kashmir International Convention Centre (SKICC) which continues to have the desired upkeep. The Centaur has well-laid out lawns extending into the lake, but where the lawns disappear into water, the thick barbed wire fencing and bunkers manned by armed personnel dotting the bank give an uneasy feeling to a visitor. Will a honeymooning couple enjoy being watched by security forces on a full moon night?

Hotels have not grown ever since tourism perished in the wake of violence two decades ago. The choice is not much, there are the ones in the crowded city, others in the lesser populated part, but none seem to adhere to any standards. While the Oberoi chain had left the valley years ago, Taj has lately shown its presence with a small property. Luxury chains and international brands are missing.

Even the Chief Minister Omar Abdullah admitted that the growth of hotels has remained at the same point as it was when the turmoil started. However the ones existing have not forgotten to hike prices to current levels ignoring the improvement of standards as per industry norms. The city centre remains over crowded.

Smaller hotels do not have bars. One fails to understand why. Is it high license fees for bars? There are licensed liquor vends in the city. Tourists going to Chashme Shahi and Pari Mahal, where the Governor’s House is said to be in the vicinity, are bound to face the stern faced security men on the public road who stop all vehicles at a picket for a thorough check and ask the visitors where they are coming from. What an inhospitable environment! The famed Pari Mahal beaten by the weather of four centuries is now dotted with bunkers manned by armed security personnel. The Nishat Bagh has lost its charm for the tourists with its poor maintenance. It has become a garden more for the locals. Chief Minister Omar Abdullah sees a silver streak; “The State has hosted over 6,25,000 tourists this season,” he claimed. “And if you count the pilgrims, the numbers are just doubled.”

While Jammu and Kashmir Tourism has taken groups of foreign tour operators on free jaunts of the State, there odes not seem to be much improvement. Says a satisfied Omar Abdullah, “The German government has withdrawn its advisory to tourists on J & K . This is a huge change for us. Two more countries are considering calling off the advisories.” The Central Government is pumping money to boost tourism and Rs.185 crore are said to have been sanctioned for new and ongoing projects. But the money appears to be going into improvement of the golf club rather than finding its way into meaningful tourism projects. A revamp of the house boats is much desired by way of government assistance, if at all it lands in the right hands of the real house boat owners. A second look at the killing pollution of Dal Lake is strongly required. The water is not only affected by the weeds, but it also shows oily pollutants making it black in color at several points. The charm is lost.

Chief Minister Omar Abdullah does not disagree when he says that “Bollywood has shifted focus from the valley.” With uncertainties and apprehensions Bollywood is bound to stay away. The State government wants to have Bollywood back, but is left with no attractive bait. Wish to go to Pahalgam or Gulmarg? The journey of barely 70 to 80 kilometers may turn out to be nothing more than tiring with cabs and buses taking well above two hours to reach their destinations. The State Chief Minister does not mince words in admitting that “there exists a problem of connectivity.” Taking a flight back from Srinagar airport is not less cumbersome. All vehicles carrying passengers are stopped almost a kilometer before the airport terminal building. Passengers must alight along with their baggage for an x-ray of the belongings. The vehicle is also inspected by a posse of policemen. It is only after clearance here that passengers can move to the airport. There are long queues for this first check and it might take longer than an hour at times to go through this point. That is not all, a passenger has to go through at least three more checks at the airport before he can finally board the flight. It can be a harrowing experience. With all this in the background the Chief Minister tells the visitors to “Enjoy yourself!” Is he being sarcastic?

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