Nahargarh

Driving to get a glimpse of the tigers at Ranthambore, it is bound to attract your attention.

The spotless white canopies and domes surrounded by a fort wall on the left just a couple of hundred yards off the road as you turn towards the entry point of the forest cannot be missed. This is Nahargarh, rightly named the 21st century fort by its royal owner. This beautiful piece of Rajput architecture built in record time by its owner – Thakur Gaj Singh of Alsisar – bears resemblance to the original Alsisar Mahal in many ways.

Thakur Gaj Singh, who lives in his grand Haveli in Jaipur and maintains the Alsisar Mahal, managing it as a heritage hotel, has a penchant for reconstructing old palaces and forts and restoring their original looks. Not only has he maintained the Alsisar Mahal’s alleys, rooms and unusually thick walls fit for a fort, but has given the sleepy town a name on the world map by throwing open his ancestral home for tourists.

Very few people have heard about this town which is barely 30 kilometers from Jhunjunu in the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan. The region was known for its Thakurs who protected the traders coming from the west into India from dacoits and bandits.

Thakur Gaj Singh Alsisar did a stint with the Indian Army before coming over to start a hotel. He converted his palatial Haveli in Jaipur into a heritage hotel and then the Mahal in Alsisar.

Thakur Gaj Singh Alsisar did a stint with the Indian Army before coming over to start a hotel.

He converted his palatial Haveli in Jaipur into a heritage hotel and then the Mahal in Alsisar. Making of Nahargarh was not an easy task, more so because it was to be the replica of a fort.

The rooms and the furnishing resemble the Alsisar Mahal and Haveli – big and spacious. The huge courtyards with lotus pond and fountain remind you of the Mahal. The canopied balconies of the suites provide an uninterrupted view of the hills bordering the Ranthambore forest. One could relax over a cup of coffee, or maybe something strong, under the ‘Chchatris’ on the terrace, again a 360 degree view of the hills.

The ‘Char Bagh’ could be the best retreat in the evening for a meal while enjoying Rajasthan’s folk music and dance. A well kept swimming pool is surrounded by a lawn and garden. The Nahargarh is rightly termed a fort – a fort like wall, made of stone runs all round the building. Between the main building and the fort wall is space enough to run elephants and this is exactly what one would experience. Thakur Gaj Singh is all set to give his guests – the tourists – a royal treat.

Maybe this would be the only fort in north India where the guests, if they wish, could enter the premises riding an elephant. The huge gates of the fort walls have been made in such a way that elephants could walk in with guests. Another major attraction is the elephant ride in this corridor surrounding the residential part of the fort. One could choose to take a ride in the evening and enjoy the overlooking Ranthambore hills.

The garden around the residential building indicates that Thakur Gaj Singh is fond of having different varieties of floral trees in his garden. Well pruned trees and lawns add to the beauty of the fort.

The dining hall of the fort needs a special mention – not only for its ambience, but for the delicious traditional Indian dishes which would satiate your hunger but will leave your taste buds craving for more all the time. The hall, which has a huge table in the centre, enough to seat 20 guests at a time, has a beautifully painted ceiling. Colorful flowers with golden sparkling outlines adorn the ceiling. All this in air conditioned comfort. The tables are well laid and ready to take in guests all the time.

Thakur Gaj Singh himself is a gourmet. He knows the taste of every dish that his kitchen his serving. All because the chefs are hand picked. For him the best chef is the one who could make the best traditional dishes. He does not ask for a paper certificate. A staff of Thakur Gaj Singh told us that each chef must first work for a few days in Thakur Gaj Singh’s kitchen. The Thakur must be fully satisfied with his preparations, before he is taken into the Fort’s employment. It is a rigorous test, they say. Thakur Gaj Singh is not easily satisfied and needs everything close to perfection. While the managers and staff look after the fort and Mahal, he keeps a sharp eye himself on everything and can point out if anything is wrong.

Thakur Gaj Singh – a man for all seasons – an architect, a connoisseur, a man of (army) discipline and a royal. Last, but not the least, he dotes on his two sons – Kunvar Dhruv and Kunvar Abhimanyu Singh who are helping manage the three properties their father owns.

Not to forget Thakur Gaj Singh’s love for vintage jeeps – he perfectly maintains the sixties vintage ‘Willys’ jeeps in his garage for which he has bagged awards too.




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